Bottega Veneta Spring 2012 RTW

Abbey Lee Kershaw

Abbey Lee Kershaw detail

Abbey Lee Kershaw backstage

Jourdan Dunn

Jourdan Dunn backstage

Kasia Strauss

Kasia Strauss detail

Kasia Strauss backstage

Olga Sherer

Olga Sherer detail

Olga Sherer backstage

I'm more than a little sorry to say that these four pieces were the only designs I deemed worthy of posting. However, as they are quality designs with the potential to be iconic dresses in many fashion editorials in the coming months, Tomas Maier can almost be forgiven for a less than strong collection. The collection fell flat when Maier played with dark purple's and green's, black and red and a touch of brown with no thematic line running through it whatsoever. It had a murky and dubious look and feeling. Even the sexiness of a Bottega Veneta collection had gone missing and that has been the saving grace and strength of many a show by Maier. The flashes of the old Maier are seen in the pieces above and I hope, are what he views to be his strengths after the fall-out of this season's effort. On another note, special attention must be given to the models; Abbey Lee Kershaw, Jourdan Dunn, Kasia Strauss and Olga Sherer, who have done a stunning job for the season and really make these pieces shine - hence why I have included multiple shots of the same outfit.

Roberto Cavalli Spring 2012 RTW

Abbey Lee Kershaw

Abbey Lee Kershaw detail

Abbey Lee Kershaw detail

Abbey Lee Kershaw backstage

Kasia Strauss

Hanne Gaby Odiele

Hanne Gaby Odiele detail

Nimue Smit

Nimue Smit detail

Elsa Sylvan

Elsa Sylvan detail

Karlie Kloss

Karmen Pedaru

Kasia Strauss

Kasia Strauss detail

Izabel Goulart

Julia Nobis

Natasha Poly

Roberto Cavalli bag detail

Magdalena Frackowiak

Magdalena Frackowiak

Roberto Cavalli has produced a classic, elegant, relaxed and sexy (it always is) collection this spring which has marked a significant break from his previous collections. Tim Blanks at Style.com hits the nail on the head, "There was a time when the niche he'd carved for himself got so clogged with cliché that he was brinking on self-parody." Cavalli has brought himself back from the brink with this show and although his trademark animal prints, sheer fabric and metallic embellishments are still there, he has made them new again with such a unique design-centred vision. 

Looking at this collection, everything that went down the runway looks new again, even if, in different combinations or contexts, we have seen it before. That is one mark of a great show and collection. The sharp black strips of material that serve as a contrast to pink and pale yellow prints are just one of the many techniques that makes this collection an elegant and well-tailored one. 

Also, I must say, I am in love with everything that is metallic this season - it has been transformed from something traditionally trashy into contemporarily chic. Thank you Roberto for reinvigorating the (classic) fashion scene in Milan and striking a perfect balance. The mark of wearable and succesful RTW collection for me is, would a French woman wear it during the day? And for this one, I'd wager, YES.

Alberta Ferretti Spring 2012 RTW

Hanne Gaby Odiele

Daga Ziober

Emily Baker

Daga Ziober

Alberta Ferretti's latest collection was excessively bright in a gaudy way (not that you could tell from the pieces I have chosen above) and featured a vague African tribal theme throughout. This can be seen in the opaque/sheer pattern contrasts and the crocheted dresses. Ferretti could have pulled off such a bold move had her tailoring been more refined and purposeful. A lot of what I saw did not flatter the female figure at all as there were few instances marrying of clothing with the body. Something was just not quite right and there were many instances where, had there not been such little annoying weaknesses, I would have chosen more to post on. This will not go down as a memorable collection by Ferretti and what's more, the pieces I have chosen remind me of one of my favourite Dolce & Gabbana seasons - please, find your voice again Alberta and then we can talk.

Aquilano.Rimondi Spring 2012 RTW

Siri Tollerød

Patricia van der Vliet

Simona Andrejic

I really don't know what all of the fuss is about. Aquilano and Rimmondi have designed a very flat collection this season. It is every shade of beige and cream and uses baroque and rococo patterns often seen as wallpaper in homes from the 60s and 70s. If I was to wear these pieces in real life I couldn't be sure that I wouldn't blend into a wall - it also doesn't help if you have white alabaster skin. What is left and of value in their collection are the three pieces above. Decide for yourself, it is also a matter of personal taste with this collection.

Gucci Spring 2012 RTW

Snejana Onopka

Snejana Onopka detail

Othilla Simon

Othilla Simon detail

Abbey Lee Kershaw

Abbey Lee Kershaw detail

Anabela Belikova

Anabela Belikova

Anabela Belikova detail

Abbey Lee Kershaw

Abbey Lee Kershaw detail

Anja Rubik

Anja Rubik detail

Zuzanna Bijoch

Zuzanna Bijoch detail

Ella Kandyba

Ella Kandyba detail

Sigrid Agren

Sigrid Agren detail

At first glance this collection looked a bit ho-hum. It was quite predictable, it had that Gucci sheen and extravagance which can sometimes look a bit gauche and its aesthetic was basically all embellishment - which seemed a bit of a cop out. On a second and third look, I changed my mind and decided that for what it was - a metallic, graphic, embellishment-themed collection - it did it quite well. There aren't many designers who can make this extravagance look wearable and street-worthy - not just cocktail party attire. It also helped to have some of the best models on the runway, but I'm not sure the doe-eyed beauty look did the clothing any favours. All in all a much better collection than previous seasons, as if you take a look, I have previously only chosen a few pieces from Gucci to post on this blog.