Doo.Ri Spring 2012 RTW

Daga Ziober

Juju Ivanyuk

Josephine Skriver

It is an absolute relief to see that Doo-Ri Chung has finally broken out of her funk and is on her way back to victory. I can visualise in mind the last collection she produced that I liked and it was a stunning display of her talent for drapery - with jersey fabric and a few electric blue pieces along with muted tones. This collection is not a display of her best, but I really do hope she gets her groove back ASAP. We've missed you!

Sophie Theallet Spring 2012 RTW

It is sexy, it is bold and it is New York. In a way it reminds me of Samantha Jones from Sex & The City; the bright colours, the shiny fabric, the simple cuts and the semi-revealing look that is sensual with a touch of demure. It may not be ground-breaking in an innovative sense but Sophie Theallet designs for a niche market that is well and truly alive and does it better than most. Well done.

3.1 Phillip Lim Spring 2012 RTW

Liu Wen

Caterina Ravaglia

Valerija Sestic

Frida Gustavsson

Frida Gustavsson (detail)

Frida Gustavsson (detail)

Nimue Smit

Elsa Sylvan

Elsa Sylvan (detail)

Josephine Skriver

Fei Fei Sun

Fei Fei Sun (detail)

Hanne Gaby Odiele

Merilin Perli

Caroline Brasch Nielsen

Caroline Brasch Nielsen (detail)

Xiao Wen

Xiao Wen (detail)

Jac

Jac (detail)

This is genius. Sorbet colours, fabric with a pearl sheen and black fabric and leather as a punchy accent. It's modern, breezy and minimalist with a little attitude. This is New York fashion at its best. I must say, there wasn't a lot I liked at New York fashion week this year, it was all a bit the same; sporty, "edgy" for edgy's sake, monochrome colour palette, quite masculine and the tailoring a little bit inept compared to their European counterparts. Phillip Lim is a standout and clearly does his own thing. I have looked at his work each season but this is the first time I've seen it and thought, yes, this is creative and quality design with an independent and inspired look. Everything in the past has blended in with the rest of fashion week. Congratulations for breaking the mould this season. Also, it's wonderful to see more Asian models on the runway here and their look is still far too unappreciated in high fashion.

Proenza Schouler Spring 2012 RTW

Jacquelyn Jablonski

Bette Franke

Charlotte Wiggins

Jourdan Dunn

Jourdan Dunn (detail)

Julia Nobis

Julia Nobis (detail)

Julia Nobis (detail)

Kaitlin Aas

Kaitlin Aas (detail)

Kaitlin Aas (detail)

Kaitlin Aas (detail)

Liu Wen

Liu Wen (detail)

Zuzanna Bijoch

Zuzanna Bijoch (detail)

Proenza Schouler clutch/shoulder bag (detail)

I was initially a little bit disappointed with Proenza Schouler's latest offering. I guess that's what happens when a label consistently produces unique and streamlined themes each season. There didn't seem to be the same commitment to a particularly recognisable theme. The best I can draw from it was a common theme of retro prints and colours. There was less of the fluoro and textural features we have come to love, but hey, who wants the same all of the time. Given a couple of days to reflect and come back, I can see the value in what the boys have done with this collection. Well done. The shoes and accessories will continue to be a big hit with the fashion savvy.

Jason Wu Spring 2012 RTW

Jacquelyn Jablonski

Jacquelyn Jablonski (detail)

Karlie Kloss

Karlie Kloss (detail)

Milou van Groesen

Mirte Maas

My top selections for the Jason Wu collection, above.